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I proudly say that this project was completed on the 27th of October, 2011–in time for all the festivities.

Again here is a very brief photo run-though of the Quorra costume build. It is almost the same as the Sam suit, except the chest is not a cardboard plate, but a tight long-sleeve shirt that has the LEDs and diffuser glued straight onto it.

So I built the second disc for Quorra in one day. Here is a very brief photographic account of what I did:

So first I need to cut out the solid inner ring from the back of the disc (only one side lights up out of the box).


Now I need to cut out the back of the other side to allow light to shine straight through the other inner ring.

Now I need to make the light diffuser for the back side (something analogous to the blue ring that it comes with). I chose to use a hot-glue molding method. First make a bath of cold water (low-temperature reservoir). Then put scotch tape over the hole that you want to be filled (in this case, the entire inner ring cut-out).

Warm up the hot glue gun to very high temperatures and fill in hot glue from the inside. Since the glue is so hot, it will have low viscosity and fill all the cracks and behave like a single piece (no grain lines).

Since the tape is held at a low temperature, the hot glue cools on contact and does not stick to or melt the tape. This gives a nice flat outside surface and the tape peels right off! Viola!

But now the hot glue is very clear-looking and does not diffuse light well. Take a razor blade and score the outside with very small and shallow cuts that are close together. This diffracts the light and makes it diffuse light much better.

Now just glue in the LEDs and…

Wire it all up!



I am running out of time so I have made the legs quick and easy.

I basically made a little rectangular frame that the LEDs/foam sit over and the wiring runs through the back. I also added a strip of LEDs for the waist that are connected to the bottom of the front chest plate.

There is a 9V connector in the top corner that is used to link up with the chest armor for power. They are held on by two sets of elastic straps.

Alright. Here is the pics from the disc holder. I have the bottom of the 2-liter epoxied down to the back armor. The bolts are already through it and I have epoxied the magnets onto the bolts. The magnets are epoxied at an angle such that they lay flat on the magnets on the disc. The way I did this was to epoxy the magnets on the disc first. Then stick the disc holder magnets onto the disc magnets. Apply epoxy on the bolts and then just gently lay the disc onto the holder and let it cure. Be careful not to epoxy the magnets to each other because they need to come off after the epoxy is cured. This gives much more holding strength.



Next I added an additional safety strap to the holder. This is for when it gets crowded and people tend to bump into you. The disc is held very well by the magnets, but still can pop off. So the strap goes from the middle of the disc holder over the top of the disc and loops over a bolt that I put through the back armor.


Alright. The top half of the suit is pretty much done… (well except for the back and the disc holder, which are en-route).

I glued a holder for my battery packs and wired up the front and back:

I also wired leads for the bicep pieces. The connection will be between two 9v-style connectors… forgot to take photos. I actually made the wires too short so the connectors stick out. I will clean up my wiring job and make the connectors hidden behind the bicep armor then take photos next time.

But, I was very excited to test fit the chest plate + biceps….

Looks a little bland in the waist area… Hopefully the thigh sections will liven things up!

The back section still needs to be diffused… will do so after I attach the disc holder.

Alright… finished off that coke bottle.

I purchased a set of neodymium magnets to hold the disc in place. These suckers are 1/4″ diameter and 1/8″ thickness. I think each one has a pull of 2-3 lbs!

I plan to epoxy the magnets onto the four little nubs on the disc and then they will stick onto metal screws in the 2-liter bottle, like this:

So… off to let the epoxy dry and the spraypaint dry on the 2-liter.

I got the LEDs hooked up for the left bicep today. Too tired to do the other one. Here they are painted:


And then with LEDs attached. To get the curvature I had to use 3-LED segments and then hook up the positive and negative rails by hand.

Next I cut foam strips and glued them over the LEDs like with the chest. Here is the final effect: